Obscur (En)

“I am not that interested in the general circus of “fashion”. I feel more drawn to but craftsmanship and the possibilities of creating atmospheres or feelings.”

-Tell us little bio of designers and brand

Obscur, at the moment, basically is a one man operation. This means one designer who is handles everything, including all the design elements, but assistants are always present.
The label was founded by Swedish designer Richard Soderberg in 2008. Obscur is showing its collections in Paris and Tokyo. The label currently sells in shops in 10 different countries around the globe. The label’s clothes mainly consist of treated leathers, flowing natural fabrics and natural based colors.

-How did you come to establish the label?

The label was created from a powerful source of inspiration and ambition. In the beginning there was no intention of even selling the clothes, the created pieces, were just a deafening result of Richards urge to create. After a while, parts of the earlier collections made their way to the internet, and the word started the spread. As a result, a more serious approach was developed, including a team, now consisting of a Sales assistant and a publicist. Obscur now is part of the ever changing world out there.

-What are the sources of inspiration in your fashion design?

I would say my inspiration comes from movies, music, moods and different settings in life which all create different inspirational energies. The development of ourselves as human beings is what makes us evolve, our tastes and style.

-How do you find and decide upon your themes for each season?

The general themes are created randomly. The direction of a collection is never predetermined and is drawn from primordial instinct. As time passes, one stumbles upon things, details and feelings. Some of these elements stick in eyes of the beholder. From this I start developing a collection.

-How did you get into fashion in the first place?

Actually I am not that interested in the general circus of “fashion”. I feel more drawn to but craftsmanship and the possibilities of creating atmospheres or feelings. The creation of clothes serves as a good foundation of combining the two. I could probably be doing furniture or some sort of arts & craft but I just happened to start working with clothes.

-What do you place the most emphasis on in fashion design?

Generally, the emphasis lies on material and the art of putting the right material into the right kind of shape. Henceforth, the final processing of garments is also very important, and it is something that I am experimenting with at the moment. However, as a small scaled company with limited production resources it is always a challenge to achieve the desire material finishes.

-What are the most important factors when you approach your work?

Obscur works from integrity, inspiration and the world around us. The label wants to attract energy, channel it, and in turn funnel it into a development of space, material and consistency.

-What is your opinion on Swedish fashion?

At the moment, Swedish fashion seems a little dull and muted. It does not change much from season to season and remains very clean and strict. Personally, I am not very fond of Swedish fashion because people are afraid of expressing themselves to the max.

-What made you want to become designer?

Interesting question. Personally, I have thought of this my entire career but I am still not certain, why I am what I am today. As I explained before, at first, there was no intention of being a designer. I think that some human beings are born and raised with an urge to create. I think that having to work as a designer is crucial to quench that thirst.

-Is there any artists or designers that had a strong influence of your career?

On person I could mention, would be Carol Christian Poell for his craftsmanship and interpretation of other elements into actual clothes. The way he approaches design, is very impressive and displays a very strong and solid cycle of creation. Another person that springs to mind would be Sruli Recht, a true Icelandic designer, which I admire for his passion and ambition, and his characteristic work.

-How do you describe characteristic of your style which makes it difference from others?

Honestly, I never think of other designers when I am working. I am nonetheless very aware of what’s surrounding me. Henceforth, I try to be sure not to step too close on already explored territory. I create clothes that I personally want to wear and I believe that identity is something that grows over the year. The years will create and define Obscur, more people will work with me, and we will make an imprint of what we do. At the moment, I am exploring, but most importantly, I am perfecting my vision & designs.

-How would you describe your customer?

Actually, I would not want to influence or steer people in any direction. Overall, I consider my customers to be fascination by construction, light, fabrics and conceptuality. Obscur is a label where you can find craftsmanship, integrity, ideology and exclusivity, all joined together.

-How do you see your brand developing over next few years?

I hope to engage more people that I can fully trust, people that understand me and that I can explain the philosophy of Obscur, to develop it further. Furthermore, I aim to keep on working with stores that are passionate of what they do, wherever they are based. Also, I would like to reach more people, in order to find new and different ways for them to express themselves.

Interview:Masaki Takida

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