Asger Juel Larsen (En)

“Everything is going so fast and customers want to be surprised and observe something different. If the change was not there things might go and get a bit boring”

-Tell us short background of yourself

I grow up in a smaller city north of Copenhagen, Denmark. I am the youngest of 3, and I have 2 older brothers. I would like to think, that I had a pretty normal childhood with a lot of love from my family. Since I can remember I have always been interested and fascinated in how people dress and the reason behind the choice people take when they stand in front of the mirror getting ready for a fresh day at work. My mother is amazing with knitting and embroidery and every night after work she would sit and knit tops with different patterns for the family. She did it, because it relaxed her, her quiet time after a stressed day. My grandmother and my great-grandmother were skilful dress makers and they would make clothes and wedding dresses for the whole village they lived in. Making something completely from scratch, not giving up and seeing the final outcome is something my mother taught me and it is something that has helped me many times during stressed periods or with unfair bosses in the past.

-How did you come to establish the label?

It has always been my plan to start up my own label, but I wanted to wait a bit.
After my BA graduate collection I had some good press, so one by one it just happened.
Right now I am doing my MA at London College of Fashion while running my own label. It’s hard work but it’s worth it.

-What is the concept of the brand?

It is historical inspired. I like anything that has something to do with military history and more specific medieval warfare. I make show pieces but at the same time I try to focus on the tailored bit, so there are still wearable pieces.

-Do you view fashion design as a means of expressing yourself?

That is what fashion design is all about, and where I see the artistic view of the person who is wearing it.

-What are the sources of inspiration in your fashion design?

For my graduate collection I first started out researching into the era of the medieval knights, and in particular their chain mail armor. I also found the clean boxy cut of the medieval patterns very exciting. From there on I became quite interested in materials like rubber, PVC and leather cords. I therefore started to look into the world of bondage. I experimented with alternative materials and techniques to see how durable each material was. The inspiration for my first key theme was when I watched Baz Luhrmann’s interpretation of Romeo and Juliet. In one scene Leonardo DiCaprio is wearing a plated chain mail costume. For some reason this costume has been in the back of my mind ever since and I have always wanted to make something out of a similar material. Paco Rabanne’s use of revolutionary materials for the fashion industry is also a great inspirational source. My inspirational sources change all the time. My next collection might be something different, but the historical approach will always be seen in my pieces.

-Do you feel that brand concepts and seasonal themes are important in expressing a collection image?

I think it is a good way to advertise your label. Everything is going so fast and customers want to be surprised and observe something different. If the change was not there things might go and get a bit boring.

-How do you describe characteristic of your style which makes it difference from others?

The wild mixture of materials combined with sharp tailoring and draping.

-How would you describe your customer?

He’s got a young, urban, bold and strong style. At the same time, would the more tailored pieces be wearable for most people who are passionate about amazing quality and fit.

-What do you place the most emphasis on in fashion design?

There are many great ones, but Paco Rabanne’s ’60 and ’70 collections and his use of revolutionary materials for the fashion industry is something I admire deeply.

-What item of clothing (if any) do you wish that more men wore?

Dreadfully firm leather trousers.

-How do you see your brand developing over the next couple of years?

While I am concentrating on my MA I hope it will grow bit by bit and people will find interest in my label, so when I am all set and done, I can show what I am really cable of.

Interview & Text/Masaki Takida

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