Interview

Mads Dinesen

–Please tell us about yourself.

My name is Mads Dinesen, a danish designer living and working in Berlin.
When i was younger i was pursuing a career as a dancer and performer, and was working hard to use the beauty of physical bodylangauge to tell stories and address political and social issues that were influencing the world i was living in.
Due to injuries i had to stop dancing, and was forced to find another way, to express myself and thought
–Please tell us your brand concept.
Continuining telling stories, using the body and clothing to evoke dialogue and exchange!

The fashion house of Dinesen combines an in depth working knowledge of impeccable tailoring and a passionate approach to fine workmanship. The street models he carefully selects evoke the fabric of the contemporary human condition and their physical presence permeate through the layers of each costume to its essential materiality.Thus, he evokes a raw and primal energy in the spectacular presentation of his collections but determinedly brut and current in relation to the environmental and social-political nature of the world around us.His consistent interest in spirituality and his intensive research into tribal and nomadic culture impacts the physical world in which we exist when we wear a Dinesen work. His work is haunting and beautiful, grotesque yet bold that is as compelling as it is taboo.He seeks to dismantle our preconceived notions about sexuality and physical beauty. Through his imagery, we gain a greater understanding about human difference and tolerance.

-To see your AW14, we could see a long and big shape tops and jodhpurs tasted bottoms.
Hat was like a Ninja,,,
Please tell us about the concept of your collection of AW14.

SMOKE CLAD WARRIOR
Throughout the history of humanity and everywhere on earth, individuals, movements, and groups of people have expressed their ideals and principles by means of protests, marches and demonstrations. Recently, we have witnessed the Arab Spring and the resistance against the oppression of LGBT individuals and organizations in Russia. Clashes occur between governments and people, between different interest groups, or between an individual and a society. The energy that is released in clashes like these serves as the main inspiration for the AW2014 collection “Smoke-Clad Warrior” by MADS DINESEN. How are protest, resistance and ideals expressed through clothing, not only from the point of view of the individual, but also from a societal and cultural point of view? Do we conform our style based on a certain way of living or on a sense of idealism? Or do we express ourselves through slogans on T-shirts and badges? The collection is a tribute to all historical and contemporary pioneers who are risking their honour, freedom and occasionally also their life in order to change the world for the better. Changes, that we as a society now may perceive as being natural or normal, often only occurred after long and heroic fights.

Mahatma Gandhi, Martin Luther King, the Dalai Lama, Shirin Ebadi, Harvey Milk, Susan B. Anthony, Ai Weiwei, Anthony Hegarty, Desmond Tutu, Aung San Suu Kyi, … The list of people who have fought bravely, and are fighting bravely, is endless. The courage and integrity that binds them, is both impressive and inspiring.

To fight for political and societal change, we must go on an introspective journey to be convinced of the idealistic fight ahead. Only by accurately determining our own beliefs, it becomes possible to conquer any injustices we face. But where does an individual encounter his own limits?

This emotional, almost spiritual, way to construct a worldview is comparable to an inner journey where each and every one of us becomes our own spiritual leader. We transform into shamans, priests, or holy men, who through knowledge and experience attempt to shape the world to our personal ideals; that is the main theme of this ethnically mystical, yet youthfully provocative collection.

The collection is focussed on being a fusion of elements inspired by history, ethnic cultures, and youth culture. The cuts and fabrics of this collection are an interplay between light and heavy, construction and draping, and of order and coincidence. The colour range is predominantly dark, though an occasional touch of colour does appear. As in all MADS DINESEN collections, prints, fabric manipulation, and knitwear are the elementary particles of this collection. Out of an idealistic point of view there will be no leather or fur in the collection. The animalistic feeling will be represented through textile manipulations, details and prints. The focus in the choice of fabrics will be on natural materials such as cotton, wool, linen, silk and raffia. In as many fabric as possible recycling, ecology and environmental sustainability is key factors when selected.

Through the AW2014 collection “Smoke-Clad Warrior”, MADS DINESEN wants to challenge everyone:

LOOK WITHIN! ? CHOOSE YOUR BATTLES! ? FIGHT THE FIGHT!

–About the hat with coin, you use chinese coin on this item.We are so suparizedurprized…why you use this coin?And is this fake coin??

It should be real coins :-)
In different cultures around the world, we have used coins different types of currency in jewellery and decorations. I wanted to make my own kind of protection spell, to express something between protection and aggression.

–Which designer do you think you are influenced?

When i was younger i was a huge fan of Bernhard Willhelm and Henrik Vibskov but also the more dramatic designer suchs as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. During the years i have been appreciating more and more the minimalistic designs of the 90’s but also folkloristic traditions from all over the world has a huge influence on my work.

–Do you know some Japanese designers?

Of course. I adore Comme de Garcons and Yamamoto, but also some of the younger generations starts to really shine!

–From what kind of art do you think you are inspired?

Very much from surreal art of the 20’s and 30’s but also folklore art and very contemporary such as Matthew Barney and Tracy Emin

–How the concept of SS15 gonna be?

The collection is called Burned Child and is a response to Smoke-clad Warrior.
The saying, “burned child fears the fire” expresses our ability to learn from our personal mistakes and not repeat our failures. Our collective history and volatile present however shows that we have not learnt from these lessons. In a self-amplifying chain of events, we are repeating the same tragedies, crimes and catastrophes in the name of politics, race and religion.

“Burned Child” raises exasperated questions to statements put forward in MADS DINESEN’s previous collection “Smoke-clad Warrior”, a celebratory tribute to all historical and contemporary pioneers risking their honor, freedom and occasionally their life in order to change the world for the better.

To fight for political and social change, one must go on an introspective journey to be convinced of the idealistic fight ahead. Only by accurately determining our own beliefs, it becomes possible to conquer any injustices we face. But where does an individual encounter his own limits?

This instinctive way to construct a worldview is comparable to an inner journey where each and every one of us becomes our own spiritual leader. We transform into shamans, priests, or holy men, who through knowledge and experience attempt to shape the world to our personal ideals; that is the main theme of this ethnically mystical, yet youthfully provocative collection.

The MADS DINESEN collections are a fusion of elements inspired by history, ethnic cultures, and youth culture. The cuts and fabrics are an interplay between light and heavy, construction and draping, and of order and coincidence. Several of the pieces and details are inspired by the designers own childhood memories. MADS DINESEN’s very specific universe is a personally spiritual and ritualistic one, he casts a spell in order to wake the world.

As in all MADS DINESEN collections- prints, fabric manipulation and knitwear are the primary stand out elements of “Burned Child”. The color range is predominantly black, white and grey, though an occasional touch of color does appear. The evocative print is an artistic collaboration with the Belgian artist Tim van den Oudenhoven. Oudenhoven’s series of found children portraits are partly burnt, leaving haunting remnants, shrouded faces and veiled motives. The abstract images directly refer to and explicitly express the collection’s poignant theme.

Out of an idealistic point of view there will be no leather or fur in the collection. The focus in the choice of fabrics include natural materials such as cotton, wool, linen, silk and cupro. Recycling, ecology and environmental sustainability are key factors when selecting the fabrics.

“They danced down the streets like dingledodies, and I shambled after as I´ve been doing all my life after people who interest me, because the only people for me are the mad ones, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn like fabulous yellow Roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars and in the middle you see the blue centerlight pop and everybody goes “Awww!””

“On the Road” (1957)

Jack Kerouac

–at last,please give the message for Japanese fan of your brand!

(hope this is right, should say thank you very much, see you soon)
Osoreirimasu! moosugu, aeru ne !

HP:http://madsdinesen.com/
http://www.uggla.jp/SHOP/g15245/list.html

Interview & Translation:Kazuma Mori

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